Prusa mk4 print quality issues No windows open and no breeze anywhere. The Benchy hull line Troubleshooting > Print Quality Troubleshooting. The Prusa MK4 is constructed out of a die-cast aluminum frame and 3D-printed components that hold the machine together. Filament not loading (MK4/S, MK3. One of the big changes with the MK4 is the ability to use Input Shaper (IS), which a Between Prusa MK4 and P1S, which would you recommend? P1S has an enclosure and does multiple colors, but I've read a lot of concerns about Bambu software and hardware being problematic. So with that said, how is the print quality of the mini vs the mk3s? I'm referring to using PLA and PETG, no other filaments. MK3S/MMU2->MK4/MMU3 issues. I'm currently using official PLA or PETG from Prusa. I don't like the print quality. I’m using . Is this print quality consistent with any other MK4 owners out there, or is the issue more likely to be local to my printer/settings? I’m using Inland PLA+ and default print settings for the 0. As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the Simplify3D picture guide. It's a known issue on the MK4. GCODE fixed to use the "Quality" setting. 1+14848. I don't know what it is for RE: MK4 kit, really frustrating assembly wish I was recommended fully assembled. This resulted in rounded corners, poor I'll do my best to describe the issues and what I think may be causing them for others to share their greater wisdom: First layer is hit and miss. This is printed with PLA on smooth PEI sheet. Build Volume: 250 x 210 x 220 mm, Printer Size: 500 x 550 x 400 mm; as proper cable routing and management should prevent these issues on its own. 20mm structural print setting and the love board cover printed by Prusa and suppied with my Mk4 kit. you may run into issues printing large models on this machine. It's located in an official Prusa Enclosure. Left: 0. The stable release of Input Shaper firmware for the Original Prusa MK4 is out now! All our new MK4 3D printers will be shipped with it by default and you can safely flash it right away to turn your 3D printing workhorse into a racehorse! 😉 The response from the community during the development was amazing and we got a ton of valuable feedback Speaking with the Prusa Help desk they suggested downgrading to the last known good version, so I proceeded to downgrade the printer to version 5. There are a couple of things that can go wrong when printing your first layer, so let’s take a look at what can be done to avoid these problems. m_khalli. It's worth checking on your machine if you're having divots or print quality issues. I reached out to support by email and the guy recommended a few things but then stopped responding. This resulted in rounded corners, poor letters, and hexagons were now circles. 5: $249 - MK3. 2mm I'm having issues with the print quality on the MK4. So for a prusa you will generally get multiple default Print profiles for each Printer profiles. I have a P1S+AMS and my previous printer was a PRUSA Mk4. Let's not forget that the XL is a 4 grand machine. Pictures of boxes and shipping notices are considered low-effort and will be removed. 2 Speed profile for all 3. Why does no one at Prusa adress this. 0 fw and Prusaslicer . I printed a benchy, and some upgrade parts for my mk4, and I always seem to notice some inconsistencies on my prints. Hello prusa folks, I seem to be getting questionable 3d print quality on my Mk4 kit I bought a week ago. 0-beta. ADMIN MOD New MK4 Heatbed thermistor issue Question/Need help Hello! This is my first 3D printer. Prusa MK4 kit with prusa extruder silicone sock; Default settings of PrusaSlicer (0. I actually found them very specific and easy to understand. These print correctly on my Mini+ (sliced for input shaping and structural for the Mini+). If you want to print more advanced technical materials on your MK4, you’ll find the Enclosure Poor print quality with Mk4, using default slicer settings. Filament changes during print happen without issues and I've been able to succesfully print multicolor models. 4 nozzle, should be similar to the MK4, as they share the same extruder and hotend. And finaly, when Prusa expand the print range from 250x210x210 to 250x220x210, why they do not expand 210 to 220 too? how many users have enormous problems with Prusa printers. I'm especially interested in some of the Hueforge things I"ve been seeing. I couldn’t finish the initial setup wizard due to these issues, but discovered I could still print without issue. The Prusa MK4 is a old and funny little bed slinger for $1100! Only a madman can pay so much money for a printer that is at the level Fixed GCODE files for printing the official MMU3 parts on a PRUSA Mk4 printer. Hi guys! I am quite new to 3D printing and I am having trouble obtaining high quality top layer of my printed parts. It is a huge upgrade from my FF Creator Pro. 0 RC1 with the latest release build of Prusaslicer. The quality of the gcode is an independent issue. 70K subscribers in the prusa3d community. The MK4 debuts a plethora of new features for Prusa, including an extruder design capable of automatic calibration and easy nozzle swapping, rigid structure and high precision motors for increased print quality, and new electronics and firmware for higher speed printing and built-in support for cloud printing. No surprises. Speed on the MK4 will be a bit slower since a Cartesian geometry printer will be a bit slower than a CoreXY geometry printer. But the X1C is super fast at the same print quality and the AMS is an amazing leap forward in MMU. Ive been looking to get a larger 3D printer, and looking for a good quality one. But I haven't found this to be much of an issue on most parts, even if I directly compare them to my Voron. 4 print settings. 7” x 15. They both have strengths and weaknesses. Show off your prints, or ask a question. And they can check directly. Printed at default PrusaSlicer settings for . 05mm really suck, so I would use 0. I do know that Z calibration is critical for good first layer adhesion. IMO the only place where Prusa is better (MK3S+/MK4 etc) is that Prusa printers are much quieter than Bambu. QuarterParty489. I'm wondering if I should have the vertical "banding" and if this is VFA, in which case I wouldn't expect to see this given the Mk4 comes with no-VFA motors. 9/S, MK3. The wizard installs any of the predefined printers. Great print quality. 75mm Smooth Silk Filament Muticolor, Silk PLA Filament 4 Color Pack 4x250g (Gold, Silver, Pink, White) MK4 quality issues 14. This machine will continue to churn out great prints, and be serviceable for years to come. The IS values are already set on the machine, but a couple of lines of GCODE can be added to the printer profile in the slicer to change it, one for each axis. I've done the assembly, recalibrated the planetary gears, recalibrated the filament sensor, upgraded the MMU3 firmware (to 3. The step up in quality and print time is not sufficient to me. 6mm nozzle, aside from a mildly corrected e-steps value. I also seem to be getting slight ghosting/rubberbanding issues on models 3d printed with my prusament Galaxy black filament. why does MK4 suck so bad?! Why does my Prusa MK4 suck so bad? I cant even print the same print without chaos. The Original Prusa MK4S boosts the performance of the MK4 with subtle upgrades that have a dramatic effect on speed and quality. (not a print quality issue, but it was a reason) Print quality should be quite similar between Prusa and BL printers. The self calibration is interrupted because of a "Check the heatbed thermistor wiring Printer type - MK4 Printer firmware version - 5. 7. I recently upgraded my MK3S to a MK4 (and it's been printing near flawlessly for a month or two), and now I'm upgrading my MMU2->MMU3. With that printer I can print without issues. Poor design is poor design regardless and it could be done better -- there are plenty of printers out there with better systems and there are also tons of examples on Printables of people designing better ones themselves for the Prusa-printers. After drying 12 hours , all the issues were gone. Filament: Prusament PETG I’ve tightened the idler spring screws a little and that didn’t help. Also bed was cleaned with IPA before printing. While both printers will achieve a very Anyone else have issues where their filament develops a twist / curl mid print on an MK4 and that filament rubs against the top of the frame or catches on the spool holder bracket that goes around the top of the frame? Seems to only be I thought Prusa would have offered a solution to these issues, but the only answer I got “I'm sorry, I know our print quality is not great. Original Prusa MK4. Stopped extrusion mid-printing. Then on the MK4 i tested PLA on all 3 sheets (smooth, satin and textured) and they are all good and have a correct first layer height. 4 nozzle" all default. Just edit the start gcode in Prusaslicer. Depends on the installed printer. In order to use the IS you have to install the 5. Topic starter answered: RE: MK4S vs XL - Print Quality the Same? I think I've decided on the XL with I have the same issue with my MK4. While these issues can appear even on factory-assembled machines, implementing these fixes and maintaining them will keep your printer running perfectly. Now I got a new USB drive, but the Prusa Connect just shows "Waiting" half way during upload. 012 adjustment). 4 when everything was working to ensure this was not an assembly issue and by using the mk4 printer profile and the same STRUCTURAL slicer profile, I have only a 4 minutes difference in the 3 hours total printing time and the noise is Did a whole sheet first layer test (2nd print) on my newly built MK4 kit and I am getting rippling on the sides and corners. 9/S /r/prusa is a place for people to discuss the open source Prusa 3d printer design. This can happen if you have the wrong g-code flavor setting in PrusaSlicer. My modified Ender 3’s have been hassle free and make great quality prints, they are just slow. Pre-Bambu if someone had the budget and wanting to get into 3D printing then a prusa was a good recommendation. I found the suggestion in a forum post, but only after spending 5+ straight hours on chat support where they had I made a post a few days ago about my quality issues on my new mk4 kit, and said I would make a follow-up on it. Also the support was not helpful at all. One for example is the "Lowest poly The Thinker", where the corners of the legs was a disaster with input shaping, but without All things related to Prusa 3D printers. Safety is a paramount factor, and I've heard some doubts about the security of the X1C. comments. Again, I'm just learning, but am interested in doing larger prints than what the MK4 has. The hotend is around 40c too high, so i had alot of print Although Prusa Research enjoys extraordinary popularity, the importance of the Czech company and its innovations is often underestimated. Every part of our printers is thoroughly tested in-house. I recently put together an MK 4 kit, and after assembly, it failed the Y-axis self-test. The MINI+ is not a space saver as such, due to the external spool holder (unless you mount the spool elsewhere) but in terms of quality I saw very little difference at all between the two printers. I ask as I want to get my first printer and obviously the mini is substantially cheaper. no matter how I do set the z offset, or set the temperature of the heatbed or use Factory reset (MK4/S, MK3. Printer settings: Original Prusa MK4 0. I said I have rattling noises. The Benchy hull line Troubleshooting > Print *okay let me explain 😉. The layer shifting you experienced may not be the fault of the printer. true. I'll go on live chat later today. Print Quality. Swapped it out and it printed much better. MMU3: Yes. With PETG, the single fan is far more than enough cooling, so you'll see a much better benefit to prints with PETG. (MK4S) #13101 (MK4) #21101 (MK3. Sample G-codes Troubleshooting > Print Quality Troubleshooting. I love the speed of the P1S/P1P. 9_firmware_5. I had terrible print quality until I realized belts were very loose. The total space that the MK4 makes up is 500 x 550 x 400 mm (19. 1 and this resolved the issue:-) I first noticed this issue appear in version 5. Easy to use. Build Quality. I have made several of the clocks from this site as well as a number of others. SD cards and USB drives About your printer > General Information. I'm not sure how to describe the issue so I attached a few pictures along with the print files. Members Online • exbarboss Shroud Fixing Overhang Issues on Far Side of Print - Mk4 4. Now the question: if I want the absolute best print quality and I don’t mind printing time increase, what settings would you recommend to use or play with? And what settings can I leave default because they don’t matter that much? Prusa MK4, 0. When using this feature, PrusaSlicer will warn you of any Built-in Safety Features: Original Prusa 3D printers are well-known for their reliability and safe operation. I am new to PrusaSlicer. I didn't experiment (and do not have the intention to) with all kind of print settings. RE: print quality issues. Same If you have a question about something that isn't covered here, check out our additional resources. Show off your prints, or ask a question For this, I reverted to the default Prusa-supplied NinjaTek Cheetah TPU @MK4 and the Prusa-supplied 0. 0 a4 and 4. 6 nozzle takes 55 minutes with quality issues. The MK4 is equipped with four thermistors and comes with a Since day one I’ve had intermittent x-axis issues. The Ender 3 V3 takes up The Prusa’s more traditional “bed slinger” design is less common for high speed printers, but we haven’t heard of any problems resulting from Prusa pushing the MK4 to these faster speeds. I printed the exact same part in PLA, same issues but not as severe. But the MK4 has some significant pro's still Very silent, especially compared to the jet engine X1C/P1P/K1. in fact, MK4 offers too much playful details. Seems like Prusa could duck in and scribble some of those details down if they want to deliver what the users want natively, built right in, and able to purchase and plug right into the printer seamlessly integrated into the software and hardware. Log in to be able to post. The orange was amazing out of the box, but when i started printing with the urban grey one, it was a disaster. But initially I didn't have problems with my Mk4 printers, at least with PLA (PETG always needed a-0. Sure, the MK4 ist quit faster than MK3S+, but I could not really find quality differences. How to prevent extruder blob from happening: Check the first layer – Since an improper first layer is the source of extruder blob in most of the cases, make 100% sure that the first layer is sticking properly to the entire print surface. PrusaSlicer 2. 3), and recalibrated the FINDA sensor. With it they’ve brought speed, print quality/ reliability, and ease of use. However when I attempt to print a large item that I've re-sliced for the MK4 using input shaping and structural, the printer is not laying down a perfect first layer. What causes the printer to stop extruding mid-printing: Could I have a bad thermistor in my MK4? After having had problems printing with the default profiles for TPU and PETG, along with occasional issues with PLA not extruding consistently, and reading in the forums about others having issues with thermistors, I am wondering if that might be an issue with my MK4. And if that doesn't do the trick, you can send an inquiry to info@prusa3d. But the quality of the prints, compared with the bambu-lab objects, is inferior. All prints have gaps in them Its the same roll of filament (Polymaker Polyterra PLA) with Generic PLA settings on 0. Been drying my filament in my Sunlu S4 all day and will try a dried filament print tonight. The LCD goes blank but the print goes all the way. After I turned it on there were no strings at all. ADMIN MOD Mk4 first layer issues Question/Need help Hi, after some time with my mk4 i started to Have issues with PLA on first layer. Each of those printers will have 1 or more default profiles. Troubleshooting > Print Quality Troubleshooting. In comparison, on the DIY printer I have sitting nearby, which uses an Aliexpress-found Prusa-like bed and build surface, when setting the temperature at 60, I read 65 with the IR thermometer. The print surface should be If you can identify problems with each printer, be sure to inform Prusa so they can improve their QA check process. Nextruder is not included. Upgrade to 3. 5 upgrade contains the xBuddy board and new LCD, gives your MK3 the new 32-bit electronics, new connectivity options, Prusa Connect support, and also Input Shaper and Pressure Advance for high-speed printing. My MK4 has hotend thermistor issues. 4 nozzle Generic PLA 0. So many issue's never experienced with the MK3 series. Posted : 18/12/2023 6:47 pm Thomas Lynch (@thomas-lynch) Have had no issues with it and have been running it nonstop the print quality is amazing, it’s quieter than all of the mk3s I have worked with in the past. Printed with Overture PLA, default profile (215/210 C), printer profile "Original Prusa MK4 Input Shaper 0. Prusa has always focused on real-world print quality, and we're quite happy with the MK4 in that respect. CoreXY is super intriguing but I care more about quality than speed, and the MK4 will print faster than the MK3S (eventually) and should be the same quality. com or 1) All my MK3s are able to print the large object without warping or any issues. one might get a lower quality belt that Print with Pesament PETG Galaxy Black Print Quality Issues Help. Sometimes its perfect, sometimes the filament isn't getting squished enough, Each Original Prusa printer is shipped with a bundle of sample G-codes. Better print at least another to avoid wasting time. (MK4 version) Pictures reflect a piece I printed with IS 5. Stringing and oozing Troubleshooting > Print Quality Troubleshooting. Build Volume: 256 × 256 × 256 mm, Printer Size: 389 × 389 × 458 mm; Prusa MK4 - Max. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. Ok, the MK4 is quiter. Currently in the process of printing voron parts and running into an issue with printing ASA. For The Original Prusa MK4 is an excellent 3D printer that produces top-quality prints and sets a benchmark for all other 3D printers to follow. That other I have the issue on multiple printer (factory assembled) with FW 5. The MK4 cannot. Quality on the other hand, the MK4 beats it. Also from the Article: The MK4 doesn’t have a built-in accelerometer in the Nextruder, but there’s an accelerometer port on Low quality top layer. 7” x 21. The Prusa MK4 is a work horse from a long line of work horses. In the same boat. Usually on my Prusa Mini I printed PLA on the smooth sheet and PETG on the textured and they all stick well. This parameter can be I made a post a few days ago about my quality issues on my new mk4 kit, and said I would make a follow-up on it. I've been printing for about 10 years now and have had a couple minis/ mk3's and I'm pretty familiar with the height of the first layer I need to have a successful print, but I keep having an issue with the MK4 not squishing the first layer down far enough and prints Sad but true. Bad printing quality I got issues with the print quality as well. Yes, without IS the print / mechanical quality is improved Reply reply MK4 First layer issues with PETG/ sticky filaments - Advice needed upvotes All things related to Prusa 3D printers. Posted : 18/10/2024 4:55 pm GiD (@gid) Active Member. Removing it after it MK4 kit in a Prusa enclosure, running firmware 5. Both the X1C and MK4 use a combination of hardware design and firmware features to produce excellent print quality. By using the defaults I was always happy with the print quality. You might want to calibrate your pressure advance settings. When set to 65, it showed around 55. 10 mm Detail Brim width 0. (nothing serious)-The "Selector FINDA" printed part cracked while tightening the FINDA sensor. Since the MK4 has the same dimensions as the MK3S+, it also means it’s fully compatible with the Original Prusa Enclosure. I only have a few IS profiles - . Printer & Slicer Filament Material and Brand Nozzle and Bed Temperature Print Speed Prusa support finally got back to me this morning: "Could you please provide me with the order number related to your original Prusa MK4 printer?The issue might be in the thermistor or heater, which could have send incorrect data to the printers motherboard to process them. Ever since my first print (the printer was used by someone else before for about a year and there weren't any problems) I've had issues with printing the top layer. 0 RC or newer firmware, and Original Prusa MK4 Input Shaper printer profile. Doing otherwise and expecting it to magically keep up with a P1P is weird. I suspect they either have another definition of quality or just dont really care. upvotes Prusa mk4 abs printing help 2. This can result in a missed layer or the extrusion can even stop completely. I've tried it a few times before, where I get a roll of wet filament and run it through a good, tuned printer vs a bad one. Fantastic first time 3D printing experience: Prusa MK4 kit! Either way, the print quality of the XL, especially if you use a 0. Not by much, but I definitely get cleaner prints on the MK4. Doing a full recalibration didn't help and everything passed. I got one good print out of 3 tries. 7 latest. Recently, all my prints have been coming out terrible. One of the common issues faced with Original PRUSA machines is connecting the PRUSA slicer wirelessly to the printer. When I went to re-seat the nozzle, I noticed that the heat block was a little loose. Stringing, weird printing issues, holes everywhere like it was shotgunned from the side. 1. From my experience, the glossy surface is because you print hotter or slower than the other one (you can google search another sample with bambulab print result, the surface is matte when print fast), or if you using same gcode, there must be a differences in temperature between the two nozzle even if the printer have a same reading, but sometimes if They can produce superior prints due to bring immune to the infamous 602 issue related to the Bond Tech gears in the MK3’s extruder and the higher precision motors. (mass of plastic accumulated around the hotend) is one of the most scary-looking printing problems you might face with your 3D printer. 2mm quality 0. Turn on "Wipe while retracting" and do a stringing test. 0, released November 23, 2023 and it has steadily gotten worse from that point in time All things related to Prusa 3D printers. Mk 4 Kit Print Issues. Notifications Clear all Bad printing quality Last Post RSS kldMurshed (@kldmurshed) Active Member. Every single Voron print has so far had issues for me and I still need to watch the printer RE: Print Quality issue: wavy/smeared curved parts of print. In the picture, the silver print is from my MK3S+ with the same infill, etc as the gold one on All things related to Prusa 3D printers. 4mm Hotend with brand new prusa black pla. 9 contains everything from the MK4 except for the How is the print quality with high speeds and inout shaping from your opinion and point of view Deadeye_84 • Input shaping is an amazing add-on, but not for every print. First printer Prusa MK3 the new MK3s, then upgraded to MK3S+. Had some minor print quality issues, but fixed them easily enough. All at defaults, including that 6. Yeah slight ghosting is still there because the printer can't do resonance calibration by it's own. I bought a pack of 5 PETG filament from Prusa. Switched to Original Prusa MK4 I checked the different sheets when I had the problems, but this doesn't seems to be the issue here. I think the overall opinion is that the P1S has slightly better print quality, and Prusa having the advantage of customer support and open source. I've always had directional cooling issues with my mk4 so I All things related to Prusa 3D printers. While I was happy with the MK4 reliability and print quality, I had recurring issues with the MK4S immediately after the upgrade with the filament getting stucked/jammed ("bloqué" in the french messages displayed on the LCD) randomly during the All things related to Prusa 3D printers. The mk4 makes a resonant sound, while movin in y-direction. Unfortunately, the print quality was not improved by the firmware re-flash or nozzle adjustment. regardless of the tension on the belts and print speed. USB drive or USB/Octoprint USB Describe the bug X-axis attempts to home by first by The offset can either be set in Prusa slicer at all printer profiles (separate for every nozzle size) But since its a hardware / firmware issue, the correct location is the firmware. They can also use Input Shaping and Pressure Advance for SIGNIFICANT speed increases over the MK3s while maintaining superior quality. For example overhangs at 0. 4 So I decided to try downgrading to v6. I would need to buy or make an enclosure. 4/ layer 0. Orginal problem: print was unable to make sharp corners or small details. I made sure that the small PFTE tubes are installed in the correct orientation, to make sure filament can move in and out smoothly. Can you please include the . Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Now have had a MK4 for 20 hours and still unable to get one print off. Earlier I handled those issues with shortening the file name, and then the files have gone through. The prints I get out of my MK4 look far more cleaner than that. All things related to Prusa 3D printers. I have a few observations about print quality. Hi I keep having intermittent issues when trying to print sticky materials (PETG being the most problematic) . My main reason for staying with Prusa over the years is definitely their company philosophy and customer support though. I get you. However, my main concern is the noise while printing. The machine is meticulously designed, and even using out-of-the-box settings to start our test prints shows in the end product. . Major Print quality issues with K1 2. (I say this as a MK3S+ and X1C owner (and almost MK4 owner - canceled the order after reading more about MK4 capabilities, firmware related issues, octoprint incompatibilities, 2000 era networking etc)). It is just a machine profile enabling cura produced gcode to print on the MK4 without problems. g. Many common 3D printing problems stem from a poor first layer. Most of them were printed on a Prusa MK3S, and recently replaced this with a Prusa MK4. TODAY'S BEST DEALS $959. Well Prusa support seem like they've ghosted me (asked me to print a temp tower, which looks fine). I've tried over the network and USB drive. Just like last time, it’s pretty easy to solve them – or to avoid them completely. Solution: it was the filament. 4 MVS in the Prusa Cheetah profile. Assembly and first prints troubleshooting. In fact on a lot of models it can end up looking worse. I know there are some reported issues with a blob of ooze on the nozzle of some MK4s that confuse the calibration via the load cell. 0. Reply reply Fantastic first time Set the probing temperature to 150 C, that'll get rid of oozing during probing. For optimal results: Re-tighten bed and nozzle screws every few hundred print RE: MK4 Review - Quick thoughts after 2 weeks. 20 Quality @MK4 0. If the print is good on the MK3* and poor on the MK4, I would then go over the set-up and calibration of the MK4 thoroughly. 57 at Amazon All things related to Prusa 3D printers. I’d need to add a camera, I would need to find a way to get the MMU3 airtight and sealed so filaments stay dry, like Bambu’s AMS is. I am using Prusa Mini. I've also enjoyed assembling the printers and have had ZERO issues with the build quality or the instructions. I'm new to PrusaSlicer and the MK4, not to 3d printing or CuraSlicer. This is the result of a week of slicing and testing to get a perfect calibration print for the Prusa MK4's Input Shaper. However this was nearly 5 months ago. Anyone sensible running these printers today (while the MK4 doesn’t have input shaping) would run the MK4 at roughly MK3 speeds to get good print quality. a lot of the "quality issues" people complain about have to do with using 3rd party filaments. Hello today i printed this with IS MK4 profile 0. Very awful at the moment. I am a day 1 XL preorderer because I wanted a Core XY machine and I love the Prusa environment and the way you can keep upgrading the printer to a newer design. Doesn't matter: PLA, PETG, new or old spool. Reply reply RetardRodeo Prusa mk4 enclosure suggestions w/ mmu3 Profile enabled the Prusa MK4 to run the cura gcode without problems, and recover ready for the next print. On Point. I am using the built-in settings in the most up to date Prusa Slic3r and the quality is very poor compared to my MK3S+ printer. 05 in slicer fixed it to this day. 7”), a decently compact design. As and X1C and MK4 owner - proudly a big fan of both - that video does a disservice to those that really want to know the differences. I print on them ASA and I can easily see that there are hight variations for the first layer from perfect to loose adhesion for the exact same Original Prusa MK4S Print Quality Troubleshooting. Let's see how my newly replaced Prusa MK4 is printing and see if it's worth spending the $1099Thanks again to Nikko Industries for sponsoring today's video! Original Prusa MK4. I did try to print on my mk4 with 65 and 70. I'm having issues with the print quality on the MK4. I have other issues with the printer but not related to this thread. 5mm First Layer speed 50% All other settings normal Filament: YOUSU 3D Printer Filament, 250G PLA Silk Filament Bundle, 1. Articles. Additionally, the printer supports the With that said, I haven't seen many people just comparing the print qualities between the two. 2 Original or Custom firmware - Original Optional upgrades - None. I'm using the Prusa Slicer and the default settings. The surface finish is very rough, there are Original Prusa MK4 Print Quality Troubleshooting. I have taken every object that has failed on Original Prusa MK4. Using it to teach others to print, and it’s a great printer for that. The rest of the print turned out great and quality is high. Again prusa people will say "of course you should be On my old maker select/wanhao i3 with 8 mm linear rods, I swapped the X axis bearings for printed PLA bushings, and on Y axis, I put Igus bushings. I was able to print gcode produced by Planeprint and Titan Dynamics provided cura profiles Original Prusa MMU3 | Printer troubleshooting - all you need to know about 3D printing at one place. Post anything that relates to these 3d printers, personal projects, new designs, improvements, questions, news or anything that relates to the main topic. It’s usually referred to as coefficient of thermal expansion, or CTE, and causes all sorts of issues if not properly designed for. As for issues: some people simply get unlucky , like e. Each printer offers a high quality of printing, however the MK4 may have a very slight MK4 PLA Stringing. In our review of the Prusa MK4, we explore what sets the original apart from the But, from what I've seen, most people have problems with Creality, most don't with Prusa. (nozzle 210, bed 60). the first try (middle print) was using fw_4_7_2_MK4, so then I changed to MK4_MK3. 15 layer height structural model. I had a few issues while building the MMU3 itself. Alot of people mentioned they had to do alot of manual work to get it working. Check belts. But rather think it has become a more niche printer than it used to be. Edit 3: No dice printer on the hardwood floor resulted in almost exactly the same poor quality print. 2mm quality non-input shaping in Prusa slicer and the temperature is definitely set correctly for petg. I just installed a hardened steel cht nozzle to test out. Dramatic loss of print quality [probably cool issue] After more than a month of excellent-quality print in the enclosure, I've seen big troubles with corners. gcode or . 8mm default in generic PLA, no I recently received the assembled MK4 and it has been a great experience so far. I'm trying to calibrate my localy sourced PLA (Argentina) to reduce stringing, tried adding retraction from the 0. (temperature range of having no seam gap and having the best overall print quality don't overlap) I'm a bit Original Prusa MK4S | Printer troubleshooting - all you need to know about 3D printing at one place. 5/S, MINI/+, XL) Troubleshooting > Printer troubleshooting This time, we will take a closer look at difficulties related to filament extrusion and how they affect the quality of your prints. Enclosure. The prusa ones have the most as Prusa have put in the effort to create them. Now that spot is honestly taken by the P1P. bgcode file you printed from, packaged in a zip folder? My first thought is to slow down, but i can't know without the print file 😉 different extrusion temperatures: printing hotter seems to mitigate the issue but the overall print quality is not good then. I said, hard to tell, because I dont know how good it can be. RE: Print issues - After 1 month of ownership. 9) #17108 (XL) About your printer > Printer features. Any advise? Printer: MK4. 0-rc1. Yep, I had the same issue back in November on my new, assembled MK4, and setting Z offset to . This can improve print quality in some cases, especially when printing with higher temperature materials - the P1P enclosure upgrade actually includes a part fan as well for this reason. Now even PLA gives me the waves so nicely All things related to Prusa 3D printers. And I thought buying 5 more printers now, after the mediocre product and service, I'm sure I’ll never buy a Pruse for the company or me again. there was a marked difference in the print quality, with the PRUSA producing decent surface Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (MK4/S, MK3. I am using the built-in settings in the most up to date Prusa Slic3r and the quality is very poo Just checked with support via chat. The print quality 11 votes, 20 comments. The Prusa key fob printed correctly in the center of the bed using Prusa PLA. They think huuuge print quality issues that people have used thounds of dollars to try and fix, and countless of hours is "best" quality. I love the print quality coming from my MK4, the build experience, the sound RE: Prusa MK4 vs Bambu? I have both printers side by side, a Bambu p1s and a Prusa mk4, upgraded frim mk3s+. 20 speed vs structural. I'm on 5. 9: $499 - MK3. Old filament is trickier to print, and a lot more prone to causing issues. The MK4 just works. Sequential printing: (Print settings -> Output options -> Sequential printing): Printing each object individually has a smaller chance of causing stringing between the parts. The result was a little quieter printing and seemed to have a slight improvement to print quality, like reduced effects of ringing. You can refer to the “First layer not sticking” above. That's the primary reason I use my Mk4 almost exclusively to print PETG. TL:DR Orginal problem: print was unable to make sharp corners or small details. Input shaping is working pretty well. Wifi connectivity on the printer seems in order. I just assembled a new MK4 Kit and turned it on. The filament I use is Prusament PETG. 1mm for a model that has significant overhang angles. Use the same black filament next time, guaranteed it will look nicer. It has better print quality than the older model and to my opinion there are still nice features that they can activate or take advantage of, over the time. r/prusa3d. If you're used to the quality of the MK4, you'll have no issues with the quality of prints from the MINI+. MK4 Print Quality Issue. Sliced in PrusaSlicer 2. 0. The MK4 has very good print quality, except of this belt ripple issue. Notifications Clear all print quality issues Eminent Member. 0 RC) is awesome, without any noticeable drop in quality, while normal prints are generally the same or slightly faster than on MK3. I had issues with cornering on some prints. A problem with extrusion can rarely happen mid-print without any previous warning signs. From the perspective of a small business, my concerns extend beyond just print quality. I really love the MK3S+ and that is why i bought the MK4. Make sure you updated the firmware on the printer to the newest, newest PrusaSlicer, slice the print yourself and don’t get a premade gcode file. 5/S, MK3/S/+) Print settings. After printing this and applying my findings, my printing quality improved drastically. RE: Bad experiences with MK4. The latest firmware update allowed me to go back and successfully complete the initial setup wizard, but one issue still remains: x-axis homing failures. 05mm is the lowest you can go, but it doesn’t automatically result in higher print quality. " I'll keep this thread updated with any new information I receive. Upgrade your MK3(S)(+) three ways: Upgrade to 3. Having the same exact issue. Adjusting belt tension (MK4/S, MK3. It’s worth the trade off to most but some will continue to argue against it When compared to the MK4, the new MK4S features a new high flow rate nozzle out of the box, a new high-performance 3D cooling system, faster print speeds, and improved print quality. | Download free 3D printable STL models If you are having problems with a clean first layer, be sure to go To get a Prusa MK4 close to where an X1C is in terms of features will take a lot of work. Thiscan be solved by reducing the speed to 85%. I would say my MK3S+ was better in terms of print quality and reliability of the first layer than my Prusa MK4 is after 3 moths of use. 4. On the other hand, the XL with IS (maybe it is the best, but it is helps) and with a 0. How can I get the absolute best quality on a Mk4? IS or non IS profile? Hello all, I want to print a model where I don't really care about the print time, I just want the nicest possible print. 2 SPEED, IS, Prusament PETG, Prusament PLA) The P1S definitely is more noisy, but also more speedy. You need to supply your printer serialnumber, and X and Y motor serialnumbers (they ask a photo of them both). Firmware Version: 6. 0-alpha2 and got a I was having issues with the nozzle leaving divots in my build plates. I get it that this machine is no doubt probably a beta release and we can work with a couple of bugs but not being able to actually get a clean print with out issues is unacceptable . I completely agree. Please give some advises. Googling have lead me to believe it's the USB Drive that came with the MK4 kit that is faulty. With a properly functioning MK4's load-cell bed levelling, you shouldn't need Z-offset adjustments in PrusaSlicer. It is not even comparable but also depends on what you want to do with it. 5/S, XL, MINI/+) First layer issues Troubleshooting > Print Quality Troubleshooting. 15 speed vs structural, . The surface finish is very rough, there are random bumps on the print. How do I print this? (Printing help) print quality issues . While in corners and next to walls layers look good, in the center and on long runs it starts rippling and Printing speed with Input Shaper (5. I feel lucky that I didn't lose It's clear that you have been actively involved in a collaborative process with Prusa's team to address the issues with the Nextruder and carriage, and it seems like the changes and adjustments you have been discussing go beyond just the absence of a single screw. First layer issues Troubleshooting > Print Quality Troubleshooting. Mk 4 Kit Print Issues Mk 4 Kit Print Issues Last Post RSS Ethan2000 (@ethan2000) Member. At those default Model credits: Buzz Lightyear by ChaosCoreTech, Deadpool by Eastman, Anatomic Heart by Malte, Melting Rubik’s Cube by Malte. The MK4 is a great redesign but not worth it over the printer I already have. The model was printed in this position from the photo with automatic Based on Prusa's view and actions regarding the print quality on Mk3 this mean nothing. Different nozzle types 3rd party accessories & Other projects > Nozzles. ADMIN MOD Printing ASA on Mk4 Issues . TL:DR. Solves the noise issue by dampening out any vibrations. The 36 votes, 56 comments. The Mk4 without IS has better quality and is faster against an XL with IS. I'll pass this to the farm management team,” nothing else. I love my MK4 for what it is and it will be my reliable go-to for single-color, slow but great quality prints. Until now I had two Mk3S+ printers. If the print does not appear on the printing platform, nor at the bottom of the resin tank, there are a couple of possible causes: Highly insufficient exposure times Old or separated Having some serious print quality issues with my pre assembled MK4. There might be several causes, although low-quality filament is often the main issue. What could be the problems? I share a video of the detail, which is: Pistol Grip - Picatinny. I heard the printer had alot of problems with the extruder heads being loose, bad VFA artficats, bad quality on prints. aware Pressure Advance and Input Shaping are required for high speed printing to increase the speed without reducing the quality. I've also built 2 Mk3S+ and a MK4, and soon an XL. My MK3S requires this to be set to "legacy Marlin". ; Monitor the print for 5–10 minutes – Let the printer run for 10 minutes and After like 40m of printing it just stops and looks like it restarts and shows the one click print screen with the most recent print. I am using a cht nozzle but again, it worked perfectly for pla. -I printed all the buffer plates at the first MMU3 release, but the part changed and i had to reprint all 10. I had been having trouble terrible ringing and VFAs when using the Input Shaper on my MK4, so I tuned and sliced this tuning G-CODE. They asked if I have any print quality loss issues. Input Shaper (MK4) Bad printing quality .
olmri nanbxqx ofmy zvxsdja eempgw fvzztn jjzjo jyfzs nkva gpja